1.0 Get to Know Leather

Leather is one of the most common materials we work with at HBI. And for good reason— it’s durable, has longevity, beauty, malleability, provides insulation, breathability, water resistance, etc.

In its most basic explanation, leather is derived from animals and is a byproduct of the food industry. If the leather is coming from a smaller animal, it’s referred to as a skin. If it’s coming from a larger animal, it’s referred to as a hide. Think snakeskin vs cowhide. There are also faux leathers (which have recently grown in popularity), but we’ll get to that at a later date.

Once the hair is removed, a skin will either be tanned (vegetable tanning, chrome tanning, etc), or chemically treated. This is what prevents the skin from decaying. Simply put, once this process is complete, the skin becomes leather. Although there are more steps involved (cleaning, re-tanning, milling, finishing, etc.), let’s stick with the basics for now.

Since a variety of animals are used, it’s no surprise that leather comes in a variety of shapes and sizes. And of course, a variety of qualities. As you can imagine, the skin of a snake has different characteristics than the hide of a cow. A snakeskin is going to be thin and soft to touch. A cowhide however, will be thicker and stiffer. Both great for bags, shoes, belts and accessories. We’ll dive deeper into how leather is used down the road.

As mentioned above, leather comes in a variety of shapes and sizes (again, based on the animal). You have full hides (or whole hides) which include skin from the entire animal. Or, half hides which are basically a full hide split down the backbone, often referred to as a side. Other cuts you may hear about, but probably not as often: belly, bend, double bend, shoulder, double shoulder, double back (dosset) and double butt.

Another factor to consider that is a very important part of any leather project, is thickness. We mostly deal with thickness as stated in ounces. Although you may at times hear thickness described in millimeters, inches and/or irons. Irons is an older term (but sometimes still used) for measuring the thickness of leather. But for the most part, you will more than likely be dealing in ounces. The below conversion chart provides comparisons of the different forms of measurement. So, if you are faced with dealing in one particular form of measurement, you can quickly convert it to the type of measurement consistent to your project. Please also keep in mind that there will be variations in thickness. Even within the same hide. Therefore, you will see the weight of a hide presented using a range. Like 5-6 oz, 7-8 oz, 9-10 oz, for example.

Leather Thickness Conversion Chart

In addition to size and shape, quality will also differ from hide to hide. This is important, so let’s dive in a bit more. In addition to choosing a quality of leather that is in line with the quality of product, it’s important to understand your usage and yields. This starts with expectations. Are you making a product that requires the leather to be flawless? Or does it allow for imperfections? Leather hides are always going to have some form of imperfection. Cutting around this portion of a hide is going to lessen the amount of leather you will gain from the hide or skin, which in turn means you will have more scrap. We generally assume 25% of a hide will be unusable due to natural markings and irregularities in shape. So, if you are in need of 100 square feet of leather, you will need to order 134 square feet (rounding up) to make sure you have enough usable leather to complete your project (100 / .75 = 133.3).

At HBI, we carefully examine each hide before we start cutting. How it can be laid out, where to start cutting, etc. The goal of this exercise is to gain as much yield as we can from every hide we touch. Because ultimately, this saves the customer money.

Tanneries do offer a grading system to assist in determining the quality of a hide. But this can be seen as very subjective. Additionally, you will see differences in how tanneries are grading their leather. Generally, the following will help you in better understanding the amount of usable leather you’ll gain from a hide, but keep in mind, this system is not used by all, and no surprise, the higher the grade, the higher the cost:

Grade A: Very few imperfections

Grade B: 10% imperfections

Grade C: 20% imperfections

Grade D: 30% imperfections

Grade E: 40% imperfections

Back to yields.. to properly determine your yield, you’ll also need to factor in cutaway scrap. Hence the reason we plan for 25% of a hide being unusable when dealing with grade B and C which is where most of the hides we work with fall.

Leather also comes in different layer cuts which also indicate the quality of leather and are sometimes used to identify grade. These cut layers, or grades are as follows:

-Full Grain: This is a hide of leather where the complete grain remains intact and is seen as the highest quality. It is also seen as the most interesting as it retains the original markings which people associate with being natural and higher in quality. Basically, aside from removing hair, the surface hasn’t been altered. Most products of heirloom quality are made using full grain leather. And when people talk about leather taking on a patina, they are more than likely referring to full grain leather goods. It is common for full grain leather to be used when making shoes, belts, luggage, weekender bags, high-end furniture, etc.

A few additional characteristics of full grain leather include breathability as well as strength. Because the entire grain remains intact, strength/durability is next to none.

-Top Grain: Top grain leather falls next in line for quality. However, some might think of top grain as the preferred leather since the imperfections have been removed through buffing and/or sanding. But because the leather has been sanded, it’s generally going to be a bit thinner. This makes it a great choice for small accessories, formal footwear and handbags. It is also a great candidate for high end products requiring a consistent look and feel from product to product. If you are looking for consistency, top grain leather provides you with a great solution.

Top grain leather generally has a smooth finish and can be buffed to a nice shine, hence its popularity in the high end shoe category. It is also a resistant to stains/water, but is less breathable than full grain.

-Split Grain or Genuine Leather: Moving down in quality, split grain is up next. Split grain leather is comprised of the bottom portion of the skin, which has been split or shaved away from the natural grains of the hide. It generally has been coated with a substance to make it look like leather. Suede is a great example of a split leather.

Split leather has none of the natural markings, and will have zero breathability. When you see that something is made from genuine leather, split grain is what you’re getting. We call that marketing folks! The goal of calling it genuine leather is to make you think you are getting something high in quality. Split grain or genuine leather will more than likely not stand the test of time. Most leather products you’ll find at a big box retailer are more than likely made from a split grain leather and probably labled as genuine leather.

-Bonded Leather: Finally, we have bonded leather. The bottom of the barrel, the scrap. Essentially, the dust and scraps are ground together and combined with PVC and other materials or fibers. It is then spread over a backing, secured with adhesive, then painted or printed. Bonded leather may only contain a small percentage of actual leather. And if that percentage is low enough, it may be considered “faux leather.”

It should be noted that some see bonded leather as being environmentally friendly since it ensures all of the leather is being consumed. But, the results are a product that is quick to wear out, requiring regular replacement. It generally has a consistent finish, but with a cheap, plastic feel and no breathability. Bonded leather is commonly used for low end furniture.

As mentioned earlier, leather is a byproduct. Therefore, imperfections are inevitable. These imperfections may include scars, bug bites, wrinkles, branding, etc. But remember, these blemishes will be mostly prevalent in your full grain leathers as the other cuts will have seen some form of action that removes, or lessens their mark. Below are some examples of natural markings:

Leather that has been deeply scarred.

Leather with scratching.

Leather with bug bites.

Example of branded leather put to good use.

Which leather is right for you? If you need help deciding, please reach out. We are always happy to help make sure you are choosing a leather that is right for your project, as well as in line with your goals and budget.

CONTACT US to learn more!